Intimoda Edit
19 June 2016
host of a counter-culture rock TV show; Style Editor at the French fashion magazine, Numéro; consultant to many famous luxury fashion brands; and Creative Director of the French sporting goods retail chain, GO SPORT. A rebel-minded genius who is not afraid to tear down everything in order to build it back better, she has completely updated MaisonLejaby. Our French sister magazine, Intima, spoke with her to learn more about the brand's direction.
This is your first official interview with Intima since you arrived at MaisonLejaby in March 2015. Your title is Creative and Image Director, which is somewhat uncommon in the lingerie field. Can you tell us more about your role?
I wear many hats, which involve more-or-less all the departments in the company. Since my arrival, I have been working on four main fronts: the repositioning of the brand's visual identity; a readjustment of our product offer; the design of our first boutique in Lyons; and a new vision for our collections and atelier. The priority was to create a solid core identity that would serve as the basis for the company's new direction.
Tell us about the brand's new identity.
First, it must be noted that today's fast fashion labels are more attractive and three-to-four-times less expensive than traditional lingerie. Therefore, it is essential for a brand to differentiate itself though: a unique, strong style; true craftsmanship in lingerie; quality, luxury materials; a traceable and transparent production process; and impeccable in-store customer service. Much like ready-to-wear, the easiest way to define ourselves and survive in the current lingerie landscape is with an immediately identifiable creative style, accompanied by a strong corporate identity. Our main objective is to standout with a clean, modern style that is in complete tune with the brand's history – we are lucky to have been around since 1930! Thusly, we have been completely imbued with the history of the brand, breaking it down to its essence in order to define its hallmarks and vocabulary. We have used the past to create a present anchored in the zeitgeist, and which can be slowly translated into a full-range of expressions. The important thing was to create a coherent, consistent look. I haven't changed the brand's underlying characteristics; I simply revived them, by revisiting them and allowing them to evolve. Our goal is to educate women that the best form of seduction is just being yourself.
You have largely reworked the product offer. How have you reorganized the collection?
We wanted to clarify our offer by creating a "circumstantial wardrobe." This "living lingerie" breaks down in four precise categories: Iconique, which, as the name suggest, consists of our signature basics, such as Nuage, Gaby or Crystal; Air du Temps, with five new lines each season, including trendy pieces that are in step with brand's history; Esprit Couture is our top-of-the-line category, consisting of the perennial Soie Belle range, to which new colors and styles are added each season, as well as an evolving bridal trousseau. Finally, Elixir is our seductive plus-size offer. We wanted to meet every demand and need in a woman's life. In terms of styles, we have started to reintroduce the triangle-cut, which had totally disappeared from our collections. I am convinced the choice of this cut is a matter of body type, and not one of age!
You are also coming back with new categories this summer.
It's true. For S/S 17, a fifth category will be dedicated to beach and swimwear, while a sixth will debut for A/W 16-17, devoted to multipurpose homewear that can be worn both in the house or out and about. The wardrobe will be bursting its doors!
How are you positioned in terms of price?
We deliberately set an accessible price point, while focusing on superior quality. For example, our lowest priced bra is the seamless T-Bra, which fits like a second skin and retails at 55 Euro. Our most expensive item is a hand-cut, silk, push-up bra covered in Leavers lace, retailing at 175 Euro.
You have opened one boutique in Lyons. Do you have plans for more?
A second boutique will open this autumn in the rue de Passy in Paris, followed by a third store by the end of the year, also in the capital. As can be seen, we have taken great care to slightly modify a store's design to suit its location, as well as the surrounding architecture. All of our stores possess the air of an atelier, which recalls our core business, reminiscent of bespoke London tailors. Our idea is to create a friendly salon with impeccable service – something that also makes us standout.
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